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Patented Nov. 2, 1926.

UITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ROBERT H. LAWSON, OF PAWTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO HEMIPHILL COM- PANY, OF CENTRAL FALLS, RHODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR EFFEGTING REVERSE PLATING.

Application filed May 11,

r wise may closely approximate the mechanism by which the reverse plating is etlected.

ln the drawings lTig. 1 is a side elevation of a stocking such for example as a sport stocking made in accordance with my invention;

p Fig. 1a is a detail: showing a portion only of a stocking wherein the lines of reverse plating do not cross as in Fig. 1;

2 is a greatly enlarged detail ot the fabric illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an end elevation of a knitting machine having the mechanism of my invention applied thereto and by which my method may be practiced;

Fig. 4 is a plan view showing the knitting head and the pattern disks geared to the knitting organization and controlling the instrumentalities whereby the reverse plating is eected;

Fig. 4t is a detail showing a slight modification to be hereafter referred to;

Fig. 5 is a. plan view of the knitting head upon a larger scale than in Fig. t with the latch ring removed;

Fig. 6 1s a detail in side elevation of certain means tor positioning the plating controlling instrumentalities at certain times:

Figi' is a view similar to Fig. 5, but with the cap ring removed and the cams partly shown in horizontal section;

Fig. 8 is a central vertical section of the construction shown in Fig. Y;

Fig. 9 is a front elevation of the upper portion ot the knitting machine and showing the knitting head and the parts imme- 1926. Serial No. 108,284.

diatelypassociated therewith in the practice of my mvention;

Fig. 10 is an end elevation of the head et the knitting machine and indicating the man ner in which the pattern disks are driveii' from the knitting organization;

Figs. 1l and 12 are details in plan with parts .broken away disclosing the geared relationot the pattern disks with the knitting organization;

Fig. 13 is aperspective view ot' a few ot the web holders and special instrumentalities for reverse plating sequentially arranged;

Fig. 14 is a development ot a portion ot the circle of knitting needles showing the 'feeding ot the yarn or threads thereto and also showing the web holders and special instrumentalities tor cooperating in eii'ecting reverse plating;

Fig. 15 represents in side elevation a series ot di'erent positions assumed by the special instrumentality that cooperates in eecting reverse plating;

Fig. 16 is a perspective view ot one web holder and one special instrumentality, both of which arepositioned in a single groove ot the web holder bed ring; and

Figs. 17, 18 and 19 are side elevations ot a needle and the two threads employed in plating showing successive relative positions assumed by these threads in reverse plating.

In my application Serial No. 10T,921,tiled May 10, 1926, I disclosed means for effecting reverse plating by the action of casting ott mechanism, and thereby l effected striping extending lengthwise the hosiery or lother knitted article.y ln the present application, l have disclosed means for eiiecting reverse plating through the action ot special instrunientalities which in the disclosed embodiment ot the invention are associated with web holders or like members and with the needles, and l provide means for shitting or altering during the knitting operation the point or points at which the reverse plating is effected. By this means l'fain enabled to make various patterns only one ot -which l have herein disclosed. The' disclosed pattern is characterizedby 'inclined lines of reverse plating which may all extend in the titl same direction along parallel lines as in Fig. l*l or may be so arrangedl as vto cross each other so as to produce diamond or like etects. Such pattern, however, is shown only as a single one o't many that may he made in accordance with my invention and comprehended within the scope thereof.

l am aware that it has been proposed to effect reverse platiner along inclined lines hy the control ot two thread guides, an instance whereof is the patent to EV. l). Huse, No. 271,071, dated January 23, 1883. Mv invention is sharply contrasted therewith in that the reverse plating is effected not by relaivc movement ot the two yarn guides for introducing the two threads, lout hy special vinstru]nentalities desirahly one for cach needie' which co-art therewith in the stitch formi-'ug operation. ina manner to he hereuiali er more fully disclosed.

ln the disclosed embodiment ot my invention each instrumentality is controlled or subject to control hy pattern mechanism, so that according to the dictates o1c the pattern mechanism reverse plating may he etected at ang7 needle. lt called `tor by the pattern mechanism, there may he achange ley progression, recession or otherwise in the pointl or area, where the reverse plating; effected, thus giving a large variety of pat.- terns.

in Fig. l, have represented a sportv stoching such for example as a golf stocking, having a legalr l provided with an upper turned over portion 2, a heel 3 made lijf narrowing `and widening', lmd a toe d shrilarlf,7 made. The stocking is de termed upon a rotary machine, such 'for ample as the so-called Banner machine, fi formel1 which is disclosed in the pater' Joshua l). Hemphill, lilo. 933,443. ln Fig. l, l have indicated at 5 and t3, tl positely inclined lines or stripes made hy re verse plating, and in Fig. l l have represented corresponding-j inclined lines or stripes e, t3, ln Fig. 2, l have represented upon a much enlarged scale the y-op'positefly inclined lines 5 5 vand tlresultingl in diamond or lozeuge shaped figures in reverse plating. the adjacent or lighter colored loops i" indicating,I normal plating.

ln the practice my invention, l provide desirahlj/ a special instruinentelit;T for each needle, and these instruiuentalities, one torni or' which is indicated at tl, are i,)laced one in each groove tl ot the weh holder hed ring' .l l, as shown most clearlyy in Figs. "l and leeirahly l place said instrumentalities in the saine grcomes as the weh holders ll, or suikers as they are sometimes termed. V[he iiistrumentalities tl do not rifuiiction as weh holders or sinkers, though under certain conditions it might he possible to run the machine in such a way as to give said nstruinentalites a webholding function.

have obtained the leest resulte, however, hy providing special instrumentalitiee which are distinct from the wel) holders or sinlers` hut positioning them each in a groove with the weh holder or sinker for that needle.

rl`he machine herein shown as one upon which my invention may he practiced need not he speciicallt,7 described inasmuch it is the well known Banner or Hemphill niachine. Referring hrielly,-howevcr, to Figs. l to l() inclusive, it is to he noted that the machine is ol the independent needle type, and the needles are desimihlvv latch needles. Therefore, l employ a latch ring l2 equipped with suialilc hinder me Ihanism generallyY in- 30 dicatcd at lil and controlled h v linlr and lever mechauisni `generally indicated at lei and which need not he further described otherwise than to state that the saine is controlled trom the patern cylinder. The entire mechanism is driven trom the main drive, shaft l h-.rivingthereon the usual pulleys and also suitahle gearing; including the pinion lt' tor driving` the large gear i7 (known in the art as the lOl gear) and which is mounted upon the shaft i8. lfroui said niaiu drive shat is also driven in usual manner a quadrant i9 pivotcd at 1.5)', whereby the machine is reciprocated during the knitting of th heel and toe. The mechanism is also provided 3e with the usual narrowing pickers and `the usual widening pickers, one each o' which is licated 'at 2() and 2l respectively, particularly i?. Vl`hcse pickers are dcsiiahlv those oli the said Banner machine U and require no Jfurther descri.; ion. 'llhe er.,

iuncdle cylinder as shown most, clearly in i" and lt), is provided with the usual Y ,Y Ae grooves wherein are mounted latch needles fit. the upper end oi the needle h5 cvluuler is provided the usual weh holder lied ring; 1t) having formed in its upper sur usual. radial grooves which as stated receive in this cmhodiineutet mj! Vinv l'on not onl \r the weh holders or so ed ilu s rs ll hut the special instru n dit e 8. nlaid elements o and ll wholly dis4 Vcoinu,=cted from each other anl are capable oit' indeilieudent radial said grooveKv and are reciproca tain cams that "will he scrihed. The c ring t2 exi' epeil as herei ring' lll and said c ol' usual consti-uuml. l1

.its .shown moet cl circuinterentialljiY shown only in the hutte diallv ol shown only in part) circuit.;

tending cams 28 and r:

thereof a cam to act upon tte 'ou of the special instrumentalities El, so

the relative rotation or movement oft needle cylinder and cam ring to move 'the said web holders and special instrumentalities in and out. I provide pattern means of any suitable type, a simple form of which is herein shown, to move the special instrumentalities 8, and herein, radially invvardso as to bring them Within the control of the proper cams oi the cap ring. When the special instrumentalities 3 are moved in- Ward by the cams oit the cap ring they so engage the proper yarn of the two yarns being ted in normal plating relation, as to reverse the plating, but iii not so moved radially inward Athen' normal plating continues, or is ed'ected at the needles pertaining to suoli special insfrumentalities. The pattern means may be of such type as will permit every needle, or every needle oit a predetermined series, to have reverse plating eected thereon. IWhile in no sense limiting myself thereto, I Will describe a simple form ot pattern mechanism, although obviously many other types or forms of pattern mechanism may be provided Within the scope of my invention.

Desirably I employ a part or parts which rotates with the rotating part ot the knitting organization, Assuming for purpose of description merely that the needle cylinder is to be rotated, it is evident that the rotating part might mesh With the needles so that in the movement of the mechanism the proper relation may be preserved. I iind it, howeverrmore ellective to provide teeth upon either the sinker cam ring or the needle cylinder, and `herein I have chosen to provvide teeth 31 upon the sinker cam ring and extending entirely about the same. Meshing therewith I provide one or, as herein shown, a plurality of gears '32, 33 respectively fast for rotating movement-upon spindles 34, 35 received in bearings 36, 37, formed or carried upon brackets 38, 39 mounted upon the bed plate of the machine.

teeth of said gears 32, 33 are desirably of greater height than are the teeth 31 with which they mesh, since in the disclosed embodiment of my invention I provide for removing the pattern disk or disks out of engagement With some at least of the butts of the special instrumentalities 8 Wit-hout" disengaging the gears 32, 33 from the tee'h 31. The number of teeth 31 for best results is equal to that of the needles of the Ina-` The respectively, here shown as secured in place by screws 48. In practice I may provide mea-ns whereby the members 46, 47 may be readily shifted to or applied at other points circumferentially ot the disks 44, 45. rIhis I may accomplish in any suitable manner. Herein for the pupose I have represented circumferentially extending slots 48a to receive the screws 48, as shown in -themodilication, Fig. 4a.

rIhe number of teeth upon the disk or disks 32, 33 is determined as follows in this embodiment ot my invention, it being noted that it two' or more disks all having the same number of teeth are provided, there would be a mere duplication in function. Assuming iirst that a single disk only is provided, as for example in producing stripes all `extending in the same direction, it the number of teeth on the disk is equal to or divisible into the number of teeth on the sinker cam ringor other toothed driving part, the stripes or reverse plating will extend parallel to the Wales of the fabric. It the number of teeth on the disk be not equal to 'ir divisible into the number of teeth on the driving part, the plating stripes will be sloping. that is, they will cross Wales. It' .tivo disks be employed, and the number of teeth thereon differ with respect to each other, and theA number of teeth on neither disk is the same as or divisible into the number ofteeth on the driving part, then different effects are secured. For example, if as shown in Figs. 11, 12, the number of teeth 31 upon the rotating parts be 120 and the number of teeth upon the diski44 be 119 and the number of teeth upon the disk 45 be 121, the constant rotationl of the disk l 44 results in what may be termed an incremental gain, and the constant:l rotation of the disk 45 results in what may be termed an incremental loss in the position of the reverse plating stripes produced or controlled thereby. That is to say, viewing Figs. 1 and 2, and assuming that the direction of turning movement of the fabric is toward the right viewing said'iigures the stripes 5 represent a constant incremental loss and the stripes 6 a constant incremental gain as to the needles upon lwhich such reverse plating is effected.

An important purpose in having a constant mesh or driving relation between` the gear or gears for the pattern disk or disks and the rotating element is that if a stocking be knitted, it is desirable to provide tor throwing the reverse` plating mechanism out of operation during the formation of the heel and toe. If the plating disks 44. 45. or the single disk, if one only were provided, were removed from the functioning relation Wit-hout retaining the meshing relation ot the teeth, the parts could not readily be restored to action Without impairing the patllOl tern. lf, however, the fabric being produced is something other than a stocking, or considering only the leg or foot of the stocking, it would not be necessary to provide means to throw thepattern disk or disks into non-functioning position. lf desired, one of the disks only may be rendered active at certain times,-assuming that two or more disks are provided.

,The special instrumentalities 8 are provided as stated with butts 30 and desirably7 one-half or substantially one-half of these butts are long butts and the remainder are short butts, thesecorresponding in posi-tion respectively with the long and short butt needles. ln practice, l may provide a somewhat greater number of short butts than of long butts.

l have stated that it is desirable especially in knitting a. stocking to provide means for lifting the pattern disk or disks out of engagement with the butts of the special instrumentalities. Desirably this removal is effected by a lifting action and in the disclosed embodiment of my invention l have provided the following means, to which my invention is in no wise limited.

The spindle 34 rests upon a lever 49 pivoted at 50 upon the framing' and to which lever is pivotally connected at 5l a link 52, the lower end whereof is pivotally connected at 53 to a lever 5t itself pivoted at 55 and having a toe 56 adapted to rest upon the disk cam 5f( mounted upon the pattern drum shaft 58 and provided with suitable circumferentially extending elevations 59. Similarly, the 'spindle 25 rests upon a lever 60 pivoted at 6l and having pivotally connected at its other end at 62 a link 63 pivotally connected at 64 to a lever 65 pivoted at 55 and having a nose 66 adapted to be engaged with another disk cam upon the pattern shaft 58.

According to the dictates of said pattern cams the disks 44, a5, or either of them, are lifted. or depressed. Desirably and for best results, as the pattern disks or either of them are or is lifted out of functioning position when the heel or toe is reached, they are lifted in two steps so as rst to lift the members 46 or [i7 as the case may be above the short butts only, and then above the long butts of the special instrumentalities 8. In restoring said parts to action, they are desirably dropped back into action in two similar steps.

In practice l provide a special pattern drum which is fast upon the pattern drum shaft 58 and this drum is provided with three cam tracks each controlling its `own lever. ylwo of these levers are the levers 54 and 65, and the third lever is one to he referred to for reti-acting or effecting the withdrawal of the special instrumentalities Leos-rees Said pattern disks dit, l5 are in the disclosed embodiment of my invention moved out of functioning positionwhen the heel and when the toe are reached, and they 'are restored to functioning position at the end of the heel and at the end of the toe. Desii-ably the outer end of each special instrumentality 8 is laterally thickened as indicated at 67 (see Fig. 16), so as entirely to ll in width the grooves 9 as is clearly evident frornFig. 7. This revente all side motion or wobble of the said special instrumentalities.

Referring particularly to Figs. 5 and t, l have represented alever 68 pivoted at 69 upon a suitable bracket 70. rthis lever extends obliquely with respect to the rotating set of web holders and special instrumentalities, and it is provided with adownwardly extending end 7l having a flat edge 72, which is adapted to enga e when moved downwardly, with the long utts of the special instrumentalities 8 so as tocause them by a wedging or cam action to move radially outward. lt is unnecessary to cause the edge 72 to engage also the short butts of sai-d special instrumentalities as they in practice are or may be moved out'by the proper cam of the sinker head. The said lever 68 is controlled in position by an arm. 73 shown most clearly in Figs. 5 and 9. as fast upon an upright rod 74 extending downwardly as indicated in Fig. 3 and pivotally connected at 7 5 with the nose end of the lever 75', pivoted at 55.

Referring to the fact that l have represented regular web holders 11, it is to be noted that between every two needles there must be some instrument that has a web holding function whether or not said web holding function is secured by a regular web holder. l prefer to have the web holding function performed as herein dis closed. For simplicity of operation, however, I prefer to provide web holders, as li, each in a groove with 'its companion special instrumentality 8, but movable independently thereof.

t will be understood from the foregoing description that each special instrumentality 8 isv under the control of pattern means which determines whether normal plating or reverse plating shall occur in each-course upon the needle pertaining thereto. De-

pending upon the elaboration of the pattern control the reverse plating Vmay be so changed in position from needle to needle as to result not only in inclined stripes eX- tcnding in a direction indicating an incremental gain or in a direction indicating an incremental loss, but figures of various sorts and contours may readily be made.

ldThen the mechanism of my invention is employed to effect or control the pla-ting, thatis, to determine when reverse plating is titi Lacasse to be accomplished, l provide for the simultaneous feeding of two yarns, namely, the back yarn and the face yarn. 'llwo such yarns are indicated in l? ig. 14, where two yarn guides 76, 77 are shown as down 1n feeding position so as to introduce .the .two yarns 78, 79.V During normal platlng, the back yarn appears at the inner face of the fabric, but during reverse plating it is brought or moved into such position through the action of the special instrumentalities 8 that it temporarily becomes the front or face yarn. The yarn guides 76, 77 constitute two of what may be the usual series of yarn guides 80, and the yarns are introduced desirably through the usual throat as indicated in Fig. 14, and the needles are moved in the knitting operationby the usual cams 81, which need not be more particularly described;

rlhe said series of yarn guides 8O are pivoted side by side as indicated at 81 in Fig. 9, and are all under the control of pattern mechanism as in the Banner machine.

lt will be understood from the foregoing description that the function ofthe pattern control, herein exemplified by the disks 44, 45 is to move special instrumentalities 8 inwardly by engagement of the members 46, 47 with the butts thereof, as indicated in Fig. 5 and elsewhere, so as to bring them under thevcontrol of theproper cams of the sinker camf ring, thereby to cause said special instrumentalities to engage the back "warn as to move it or cause it to be moved to become temporarily the front or face yarn, and thereby effect reverse plating.

In Fig. 15, I have shown seven successive positions of the parts in effecting reverse plating. The thread 84 which is shown as black is the thread which innormal plating appears at .the inner face of the fabric. In reverse plating the said black thread is engaged by the upright edge 85 of the special instrumentality 8 and the result is to cause said thread to appear at the outside of the fabric.

The white thread 86 is received within the uppernotch 87 of the regular web holder 11 and finds its position in reverse plating at the inner face of the fabric.

In Figs. 17, 18 and 19, I have represented successive positions of the black thread 84 and the white thread 86 in effecting reverse plating.

Referring again to Fig. 7, it will be evident that I have not there attempted to show throughout their entire circumference the' cam paths or formations for the butts of In that form of special instrumentality shown in Figs. 1 to 1d, there is rovided but the single nib indicated at 96, ut it is to be understood that my invention is not restricted tosuch form.

ln accordance with this embodiment of my invention, the upright face of the nib of the special instrumentality 8 engages and pushes the yarn lwhich is to Vappear at the outer face of the fabric in reverse plating. lt is obvious'that my invention is not limited to the special shape or form of the instrumentality referred to, nor to the described movement thereof in order to move the yarn as described to appear at the onr face of the fabric. ll desirably move the described yarn and in this embediment of the invention such movement is edected by pushing the said yarn. Y

ln the disclosed embodiment ofnigy invention and wherein the special instrumentaliy ties are each'in a groove'with a regular web holder, it is to be understood that the direction of rotation of the needle cylinder is such that the special instrumentalities engage the yarn before the regular web holder in the same groove therein. lt is to be observed that applicants invention is embodied or practised in a so-called direct thread measuring knitting machine, i. e., onewhere'-A in the length of needle loops is controlled 95 by the thread drawing movement of the needles, as contrasted with a knitting machine wherein instrumentalities such as jack sinkers and dividing sinkers are employed to measure the loops.

Having thus described one embodiment of the mechanism of my invention and one manner of practicing the method thereof. and having disclosed but a single pattern of fabric made' in accorda-nce withmy inven- 105 tion, it is to be understood that although specific terms are employed they are used 1n a generic and descriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the inyention being set forth in the following claims.

Claims 1. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means` to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating ,relation to the needles, and means selectively governing the transverse movement of said instrumentalties to effect a relative transverse movement of at least one of said threads with y respect to the needles,l with consequent reversal in positionof said threads. whereby, when loop formation by the needles is respectively completed, the back thread will selectively appearsat the face of the fabric.

2. Mechanism for effecting plating and titi reverse plating in a lmitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrnmentalities for each needle respectively, said instrnmentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding' means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means selectively governing the transverse movement of said instrumentalities to edect separation of said two threads with relative movement of at least one of said threads with respect to the needles, whereby, when loop 'formation by the needles is respectively completed, the back thread-will selectively appear at the face of the fabric.

d. Mechanism for edecting plating and reverseplating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respec-tively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means selectively governing the transverse movement of said instrumentalities to move at p least one of said threads transversely with respect to the needle series, so as, when loop formation by the needles is completed, the back thread will selectively appear at the face of the fabric.

d. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means selectively governing the transverse movement of said instrumentalities to engage and separate said two threads and thereby to eti'ect reversal in position of said threads at selective needles, whereby, when loop formation by the needles is respectively completed, the back thread will selectively appear atv the face of the fabric.

5. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means for selectively -moving said instrumentalities transversely of the needle series selectively to reverse the relative `position of the face and back threads at one or more selected needles. whereby, when loop formation at the selected needles is respectively completed, the back thread will there appear at the face of the fabric.

6.. lllechanien for edecting plating an Leonesa reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively,said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means for selectively moving any of said instrumentalities to effect reversal in position of the back and face threads at therespective needles, whereby, when loop formation by the needles is respectively completed, the back thread will selectively appear at the face of the fabric.

7. Mechanism for edectingplating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in platingrelation to the needles, and means forv selectively separating the two threads to their relatively desired position in the fabric prior to the descent of the needles, whereby when loop formation by the needles is respectively conipleted, the back thread will selectively ap pear at the face'of the fabric. 8. Mechanism for e'ecti-ng plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and selective means adapted to cooperate with said thread engaging instrumentalities to effect reverse plating at any single Wale of the fabric.

9. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrnmcntalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and selective means cooperating with said thread engaging instrumentalities to effect reverse plating at any single needle Wale of the fabric 10. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a facethread in plating relation to the needles, and selective means cooperating with said thread engaging instrumentalities to reverse the position of the said d threads at any wale of the fabric.

l0@ series, thread guiding means to feed a back Lessines 11. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a'knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needles series,'thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means cooperating with said thread engaging instrumentalities completely to change from normal platin to re#` veil'se plating at any wale of the fa ricat wi l.

12. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movv yable individually transversely of the needles series, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and'pattern means arranged at one side ofthe needle series to act upon the thread engaging instrumentalities so as to impart thread separating movement'at any needle whereby, when the loop formation by the needles is respectively completed, the back thread selectively appears at the face of the fabric.

13. A circular knitting machine'- for ef fecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a circular series of independent needles, thread engaging in` strumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means selectively governing the in and out mov/ement of said thread engaging instrumentalities to effect change from plating to reverse plating at any wale of the fabric at will.

14. A circular knitting machine for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a circular series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and selective means cooperating with said thread engaging instrumentalities to cause reversal in position oitl the threads at any wale whereby, when the loop formation by the needles `is respectively completed, the back thread will selectively appear at the face of the fabric.

15. A circular knitting machine for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric inciuding a circular series of inde pendent needles, thread engaging instru nientalitics between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the `said thread rselectively to separate the threads radially Wale of the A fabric.

16. A circular knitting machine for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a circular series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means cooperating with engaging instrumentalities to their relatively desired position in the fabric prior tothe descent of the respective needles. l

17. A, circular lknitting machine for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a circular series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and means cooperating with said thread engaging instrumentalities for selectively` governing "their in and out movement to move at least one of said threads radially with respect tothe needles so as to reverse their position whereby, when loop formation by the needles is respectively completed, the back thread will selectively appear at'the face of the fabric.

'18. A direct-thread measuring knitting machine, i. e., wherein .the length of needle loops is controlled by the thread drawing movement of the needles, having a series of needles, means for supplying two threads in a plating relation to said series of needles, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable transversely of the needle series, and selective means cooperating with said thread. engaging instrumentalities for starting and for stopping reverse plating at will,l at any needle of the said series of needles.

19. A direct thread measuring knitting machine, i. e., ywherein the length of needle loops is controlledby the thread drawing movement of the needles, having a series of needles, means for supplying two threads in a plating relation to said series of needles, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable transversely of the needle series, and selective means cooperating with said thread engaging instrumciuialities for separating thetwo threads at will at any needle of the series so as, when the loop formation by the needles is respectively completed, reverse plating is effected at will.

20. ln a circular hosiery, independent needle, knitting machine, wherein the anl length ci" loops is controlled by the thnead drawing movement oi" the needles, a circular series olf independent needles, a correspending' series et yarn instranientalities positioned between the needles and movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, and selective means cooperating With said thread engaging instrninentalities, whereby reverse plating may be started at Will sny needle oi the series ci needles.

2L ln a circular hosiery, independent needle, knitting machine, wherein the length ot loops is controlled by the thread drawing movement ot the needles, a. circalar series oi independent needles, a corre spending1 series of 'thread engaging instru- 'nientalities positioned between the needles and movable in and out, vthread guiding means to leed a back thread and a lace thread in plating relation to the needles, and selective means cooperating with said thread engaging instrnnientalities, vvhe'reby reverse 'plating may be stanted at Will and may be stopped at -vvill at any needle of the series nl needles.

22. .l circular, independent siery machine, having` -in ons Vlor making heel and toe pockets by a ashioning operation, a circular series et independent nee dies, corresponding series of thread eninstrumentalities movable in and ont between. the needles respectively, selective means cooperating with said thread ing instrninentalities to -eilect change in the position of threat f1 and thereby to reverse plating at will, and means for nu said selective means inactive dur heel or tee Work.

l circular, independent needle, ho sierv machine, having` means for making heef. end toe pockets by ashioning opera tion, circula? series el independent neeol threadv en# s movable in and i respectively, selecj with said thread en to eidect change .lireads and thereby to needle, ho.-

atleett Till, and means vflereby said neans is rendered inact'f d 'f Tfvorl.

` tin machine having ,i J c lndenendent needles, a con r ett thread in- `tioned bevveen the. needles ulg LA .M l thread in pla l and selective means for cruising any oil said insleninentalities to engage tlie'baclr thread and nieve it into position to become the tace thread.

25. A circular knitting machineior eimoesen lecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric, including a circular series oi independent needles, thread engaging instruinentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and ont,

thread guiding means to leed a backthread and a 'lace thread in plating relation to the needles, and a pattern member exterior to the needle circle and adapted to act selectively in controlling; the in and ont. Inovement .of said -thread engaging instrumentalities to ellect change l'rom plating to reverse plating.

2li. l circular knitting machine for el` lecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted iabric, including a circular series et independent needles, thread engaging in sti'uinentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a baclt thread and a face thread in plating,Ir relation to the needles, and a pattern disk acting selectively upon said thread engaginginstrumentalities to govern the movement thereot`- to ei:-

4lect chan 'e troni latino to reverse )latinox 27. A circular knitting machine for ellecting;- plating and reverse plating,` in a knit-ted fabric, including circular series oi independent needles, thread engagingf inf strninentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and ont,

thread guiding `means to lee-d a back thread and a 1face thread .in plating relation to the needles, and a pattern disk having; orniations to engage and move said instrnmenp tlitievs, thereby to effect, when loop forniation oi 'the needles is completed, a change from normal plating,1 to reverse plating,

A circular knitting machine toi' eilecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric, including a circular series oi` independent needles carried by a rotat ing; member, thread engaging' instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and ont, thread {faidties of said series to cause them tofunction m effecting revert-e plating.

30 A circular knitting machine for cffecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric, including a circular series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, a pattern disk having formations to engage and move selected instrumentalities of said series to cause them to function in effecting reverse plating, and means to render said disk ineffective without necessary stopping of the knitting operation.

31. A circular knitting machine for effecting reverse plating in a knitted fabric,

including a circular series of independent needles, a rotating carrier therefor, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles, a pattern disk having formations to act selectively upon said instrumentalities to move them inward to function for reverse plating, said disk having a geared relation with the rotating needle carrier.

carrier therefor, thread engaging instrument-alities between the needles respectively7 and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles and two pattern disks geared respectively to the needle carrier and having formations to act upon said instrumcntalities selectively to cause reversal in position of the threads at selected needles, whereby when loop forv mation by the needlesds completed, reverse plating appears at predetermined wales.

33. A circular knitting machine for ef fecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric, including a circular series of independent needles, a rotatable needle carrier therefor, thread engaging instrumentalities between the needles respectively and individually movable in and out, thread guiding means to feed a back thread and a face thread in plating relation to the needles and two pattern disks geared respectively to the needle carrierv and having formations to `ract upon said instrumentalities selectively to cause reversal `in position of the threads at selected needles, whereby when loop formation by the needles 1s completed, reverse lating appears at predetermined wales, t e ratio of teeth upon said two disks bearing such relation to the driver therefor asto result in oppositely extending inclined stripes of reverse plating.;

34C. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric includmg a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needle series, and selective means forl acting upon said thread engaging instrumentalities to effect, when loop formation by the needles is completed, normal plating at desired needles, and reverse plating at other needles, whereby lengthwise extending stripes are produced, and whereby selected stripes are caused to slope during the knitting of the fabric.

Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needle series, and selective means for acting upon said thread engaging instrumentalities to effect, when loop formation by the needles is completed, normal plating at desired needles, and reverse plating at other needles, whereby lengthwise extending stripes are produced, and whereby selected stripes of reverse plating are caused to gain or to recede in a direction crosswise of the fabric.

36. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating ina knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging .instrumentalities for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable individually transversely of the needle series, and selective means for acting upon said thread engaging instrumentalities to effect, when loop formation by the needles is completed, normal plating at desired needles and reverse platin at other needles, whereby lengthwise exten ing stripes are produced, and whereby selected stripes are caused to incline or slope on the fabric according to 4a predetermined pattern.

37. Mechanism for effecting plating and reverse plating in a knitted fabric including a series of independent needles, thread engaging instrumentalities `for each needle respectively, said instrumentalities being movable yindividually transversely of the needle series, and selective means for acting upon said thread engaging instrumentalities to effect, when loop formation by the needles is completed, `normal plating at desired needles, and reverse plating at other needles, whereby lengthwise extending stripes are produced, and co-acting means to cause certain of said stripes to gain or advance with respect to the needles whereon they are formed and others of said stripes to lose or recede with respect to the needles Whereon they are formed, whereby oppositely inclined plating stripes are produced.

38. That process of effecting striped plating in knitted fabrics consisting in feeding a back thread and a face thread to the needles so as to elect normal plating, moving selectively thread engaging instrumentalities transversely of the needle series, so as to engage a thread at any Wale of the fabric at dictation of pattern control to cause relative change in position of the two threads, whereby, when loop formation by the needies is completed, reverse plating is produced at predetermined Wales.

39. That process of effecting striped plating in knitted fabrics consisting in feedin a back thread and a face thread to the need es so as to effect normal plating, movingselected thread engaging instrumentalities transversely of the needle series, so as to eect a relative transverse movement of at least one of said threads with respect to the needles, with consequent relative separation of the said two threads, Wherebyvvhen loop formation by the needles `is respectively completed, the back thread will appear ,selectively at the face of the fabric.

40. That process of effecting striped plat- Leoaaac ing in knitted fabrics consisting in feeding a back thread and a face thread to the needles so as to effect normal plating, moving selected thread engaging instrumentalities transversely of the needle series, so as to effeet relative separation of said two threads .with a relative movement of at least one of said threads With respect to the-needles, whereby, when loop formation by the needles is respectively. completed, the back thread will appear selectively at the face of the fabric.

41. That process of effecting striped plating in knitted fabrics consisting in feeding a back thread and a face thread to the needlcs so as to effect normal plating, moving selected thread engaging instrumentalities transversely of the needle series, so as to engage and separate said two threads and thereby to eifect reversal in position of said threads at selected needles, whereby, When loop formation by the needles is respectively completed, the back thread will selectively appear at the face of the fabric.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

aonnafr H. Lawson 

